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Cayuse

Sailing triplets

Rome to Ponza

After a couple of days in Ostia, we sailed pass the town of Anzio.  Marsha’s dad participated in the Battle of Anzio in WWII. He was shot in the hip during the invasion and received the Purple Heart. The battle started in January 1944 and the Allies ousted the Germans from Rome by June 1944. We sailed to the island of Ponza tonight, which is island 18 miles off the Italian coast. According to local lore, Ponza was named after Pontius Pilate, the Roman governor who tried Jesus for sedition. Pontius Pilate’s family owned a grotto on Ponza, which is still named after him.

 

 

 

 

On to Italy

We left Pinarellu and motored around the point to Porto Vecchio to check out of France. We anchored in the upper bay, which is well protected. Porto Vecchio has a really nice old town on a hill overlooking the bay. We left the next morning for Rome and sailed all night across the Tyrrhenian Sea to the marina in Ostia, Italy at the mouth of the Tiber River. We stopped to pick up Courtney Nash, who is sailing with us for the next several weeks. We spent part of a day touring Ostia Antica, which is the well-preserved port town of ancient Rome.

Corse

After leaving Saint-Florent, we sailed around the north end of Corsica to the port city of Bastia to pick up of 2 of Haley’s friends from Wake Forest, who spent 3 days on the boat with us. Bastia is where many ferries from mainland France and Italy arrive. People, cars, and trucks all move around the Med. in large ferries. We have passed many of them sailing at night. After leaving Bastia, we sailed down to the Gulf of Pinarellu, a very pretty bay just north of Port Vecchio. We spent several nice days anchored there swimming, checking out the town and beach, and eating good French food while the mistral was blowing hard on the west side of the island.

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Passage from La Grande Motte to Saint-Florent, Corsica

Words and photos by Haley

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After the Outremer cup and days of preparation and provisioning, we finally left La Grande Motte for Corsica!

Our first stop on the journey to Corsica was the Iles de Porquerolles, a small group of islands between Marseilles and St. Tropez. The trip was an all-day sail, so we woke up super early in order to make it there in daylight.

The sail was uneventful, with very light winds and thus a lot of motor-sailing.

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We spent the night at anchor in the Porquerolles, a nice little anchorage off the town of Hyeres.

The next day we headed towards Corsica, once again facing extremely light winds and glassy seas.

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The sail was roughly 20 hours, with some ship traffic but nothing too exciting.

 

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As we approached Corsica at dawn we were greeted by a gorgeous sunrise!

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Corsica is a very mountainous island, with beautiful vistas along the coast. We pulled into Saint-Florent, a small resort town on the northeast coast, around 8:00am, ready to explore.

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2017 Outremer Cup

We arrived in La Grande Motte in late May and sailed in the 2017 Outremer Cup, which is 3 days of racing with 20 other Outremer catamarans.  The wind was light all 3 days, but the boats sail really well in light air.  Marsha, Haley and I had great time sailing with a guy from Alaska (who is here in LGM working on his boat) and 3 young French sailors who joined us on the boat.

 

Good Steward Malawi trip

After we finished our shakedown cruise on the new Cayuse, Marsha, Cameron, and Travis flew from Paris to Nairobi to Lilongwe in Malawi.  They spent 2 weeks raveling around the country building libraries with the with the Good Steward Global Initiative.

Cayuse Shakedown Cruise

Our first shakedown cruise on the new boat went well.  We did not do too much damage to the crew or the boat.  The crew was Marsha, Travis, Cameron, and me.  We left La Grande Motte on Friday morning.  It was blowing about 18 knots when we left the marina.  We headed out around the point at Port Camargue and raised the mainsail and unfurled the jib.  The boat moves so easily through the water and we were quickly going 9 to 10 knots close hauled to St. Tropez.   We thought we might get there by midnight.  But the wind dropped off to about 8 knots after a few hours.  We set the Code 0 and flew that for few hours and then it picked back up a few knots and we dropped it and set the jib again.  We sailed along for the rest of the day at 6 to 8 knots until the wind completely died and we started the engines.  The boat has 2 Volvo 40 hp diesels on sail drives. It motors at 6.5 knots on one engine and 7.5 to 8 knots on 2 engines at 2200 RPMs.

     We arrived in the Gulf of St. Tropez around 10 am after sailing all night and motored into the St. Tropez marina to see if we could get a slip.  The marina was packed with megayachts doing the summer charter trade.  It was full so we headed back outside the marina and anchored and all of us sacked out for a few hours to catch up on sleep.  Later that afternoon, Travis was looking at the charts and said there was a marina at the north end of the bay in Port Grimaud.  He called them on the phone and they had slip.  (It is hard for Cameron and Travis to be without high speed internet for more than 24 hours.)   We motored up to the marina and tied up stern to.  In the marinas in the Med, there are typically no slips, just long concrete quays with mooring lines off the bow.  The procedure is to back in, tie off a stern line, pick up the bow mooring line, and power forward while you tie off the bow.  It is going to take a bit of practice to get the procedure down!  The next day we took the short ferry ride over to St. Tropez and spent the afternoon eating lunch and walking around the town.

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The food in southern France has been terrific and the prices are similar to US restaurants.   We walked up to the Citadel at the top of the town.  It offers views of the entire Gulf of Tropez.  That night after returning to Port Grimaud, we walked over to a small restaurant and the food was very good as well.  The next day we left Port Grimaud around 10 am to start back to La Grande Motte.  There was very little wind so we motored to Ile de Porquerolles, which is a largest island of the Iles de Hydres.  The islands are part of the Port Cros National Park.  We anchored near Point Bearlieu in sand in about 12 feet of very clear water.  There was some grass on the bottom and it took us a couple of attempts to set the anchor.   We launched the dinghy and motored into the town.  We walked over to the beach and checked out the small town.  They had a surprising amount of boat services available for an island.   We had dinner on the boat and a nice night in the anchorage.

The next morning we started early and headed back to La Grande Motte.  For the last 6 hours or so of the trip back, the wind was blowing about 10 knots from the southwest at a true wind angle of 60 degrees.  We set the Code 0 and the boat sailed really well at 9 to 10 knots until we made it to LGM.  I am becoming a big fan of the Code 0.  It was a nice way to wrap our first cruise on Cayuse.  We have a couple of items to fix on the boat but not too much.  The Outremer guys have been very helpful in working with us on the boat.

I fly back to Houston this weekend and Marsha, Travis, and Cameron are going to Paris and then to Malawi in Africa to help with the Good Steward’s literacy program.  In the past, the group has focused on building libraries in Uganda, but this year they are branching out to Malawi. The books for the libraries have already been collected in Houston and shipped in a container to Longwai, Malawi.  The group will spend a couple of weeks in Malawi building libraries in small villages.

Taking Delivery of New Boat!

Marsha, Haley, and I flew to Montpellier to take delivery of the new boat. We met with Matthieu and Claudine of Outremer on Wednesday, May 18, to review the boat and its systems to make sure everything had been added as discussed. After going over the equipment list, it all looked good and we accepted the boat that day. Over the next several days, the Outremer group spent the mornings reviewing the boat systems (electrical, plumbing, electronics, etc.) with us and in the afternoon we went sailing on the boat with Jean-Pierre, a boat captain who works with Outremer and is very familiar with the boats. We practiced sail handling, anchoring, and maneuvering around the dock. All of it is very different from the Tayana 52 monohull we had before. The hardest part is docking the boat. It has 2 engines, which helps, but the boat is very light and sits on top of the water without a keel. This means it slides o the top of the water and moves very quickly in the wind and can be difficult to control. The sailing sessions with Jean-Pierre were very helpful and he brought us up to speed on the boat quickly, but it will take some practice.   We also spent several days going to the Ikea and Giante (like Target) in Montpellier buying the boat stuff we could not bring over on the plane. We brought over 500 pounds of gear in our checked luggage, but there will still quite a few items to pick up.

We also spent some time in Montpellier and saw fantastic rainbows after intense rainshowers.

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Peru – The Inca Trail and Machu Picchu

We flew to Lima and then on to Cusco, which is in southeastern Peru in the Urubamba Valley of the Andes. Cusco is high at 11,200 feet and was the capital of the Inca empire. We spent three days in Cusco hiking and sightseeing while becoming acclimated to the altitude.

After becoming acclimated, we spent 5 days hiking the classic Inca trail into Machu Picchu.  Much of the trail consists of rock steps that constructed by the Inca’s. This can make the hiking more difficult as you need to continually watch where you step to avoid stumbling.  We celebrated Travis, Haley, and Cameron’s 20th birthday the first night on the trail.  The trail reaches 14,000 feet at Dead Woman’s Pass on the second day of the hike.  The trail terminates at the Sun Gate entrance into Machu Picchu.  We spent a day hiking around Machu Picchu, the lost city of the Inca’s discovered by Hiram Bingham in 1911.

Ciao!

We traveled to Italy with our friends, the Williams, and their kids. We flew to Rome and spent several days in a small hotel near the Spanish Steps. We went to the Colosseum, Spanish Steps, Roman Forum, Trevi fountains, Pantheon, Vatican Museums and many other churches, plazas, and museums. After a few days in Rome, we rented a car and drove to Orvieto, Italy, north of Rome on the way to Florence. We rented a villa about 20 minutes outside of Orvieto in the Italian country side. It was a gorgeous house on 4 acres with 5 bedrooms and a flock of sheep with bells that serenaded us at night. We had a terrific week in Orvieto. We traveled to Florence on the train one day, drove to Lake Bolsena on another day and spent a delightful day at the local sailing club sailing on a Hobie cat, and attended a special 4th of July concert in the plaza in front of the Orvieto Cathedral put on by the Italian Cinema Orchestra. The concert included the rapper Mims as a special guest.

Photos of the trip can be found at this link.  Photos of Italy

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